Iron Horse Blog
With the start of summer, the drought has been hitting closer and closer to home … and then, suddenly, it is home.
Wells are starting to go dry in nearby Forestville. Up until now, I have felt relatively secure that the North Bay (Marin, Sonoma, Napa) is experiencing nothing more than a “severe drought.” This classification is a level five on the seven levels of severity. Therefore, in a small way I have considered our vineyard as more fortunate when compared with other parts of the state, like Fresno, which is suffering “extraordinary drought.”
Since I last blogged on this topic, the State Water Resouces Control Board approved an emergency regulation aimed at protecting the threatened Coho Salmon and Steelhead. Ordinances affect about 13,000 properties in the watersheds of Dutch Bill Creek, Green Valley Creek, which bisects Iron Horse, Mark West Creek and Mill Creek. Water users in these watersheds, i.e. us, will be subject to: 1) enhanced conservation measures built on existing statewide water restrictions 2) regular submission of reports detailing surface and groundwater use. (Note: Below is a photo of our creek from May 2013. It shows water … today it is just muddy.)
The center of this issue goes beyond the mandatory reporting of diversions, focusing on the very definition of a diversion. According to a draft of the emergency regulation:
“Diversions” means all water diverted or pumped from surface waters or from subsurface waters that are hydraulically connected to the surface stream within the watersheds.
All subsurface water is considered hydraulically connected to the surface stream if pumping that water may contribute to a reduction in stream stage or flow of any surface stream within the watersheds.
For the first time ever we will monitor and report on our groundwater use, filing what we have diverted with the State Water Boards.
Really this just means more paperwork. Historically, we only divert water from the creek when the water level is high enough for the health of the fish. Our Iron Horse family has been working with Fish & Wildlife officials since last November to remove any barriers preventing fish from commuting up and down stream. To support our joint efforts, we have significantly reduced our diversions. In 2013 we pumped 8 acre/feet, in 2014 just 2.75, and in 2015, none … so as not to endanger the hatchlings seeded by Fish & Wildlife. We love the salmon and do everything we can to help them navigate Green Valley Creek.
This makes us more reliant on the fruits of our conservation efforts including recycled water and winery grey water which goes to the reservoir for the vineyards, gardens and landscaping. This reservoir is just about full - re-charged by advanced treated water from Forestville. We are installing meters on our wells and our houses. We are mowing more frequently in the vineyards to preserve the cover crop and keep it from competing with the vines. We pruned and have been thinning shoots to reduce water needs of the vines. (Below - a picture of the vegetable garden, irrigated with advanced treated water.)
Good news is that at least in May, we celebrated residential water use wins as shared in the Los Angeles Times. Urban areas reported a 29% drop in usage which is the biggest monthly decline yet since Gov. Jerry Brown ordered mandatory cuts. But officials caution that these efforts will have to ramp up as the warmer months become more exaggerated, we need six consistent months of similar water use declines to see serious impact.
As experts admit, overall water usage this summer is anyone's guess and is largely dependent on the heat. Every drop counts - a philosophy that has been embraced by everyone at Iron Horse. In fact, my brother is growing a “drought beard” to proactively “repurpose” water normally used while shaving.
As for our beloved California salmon …
We spend a good part of the year waiting for summer, which heralds the return of wild king salmon, considered by many to be Sonoma’s “National Dish”.
State and federal wildlife agencies have been transporting the new generation of baby fish via tanker truck to San Francisco Bay. Due to the drought, rivers and streams have become too shallow or too warm for salmon to navigate and survive the journey to the Pacific.
The salmon transport has been in progress since February, with 35,000 gallon tanker trucks being used to transport salmon along the 90 minute journey from hatcheries to the ocean via the freeway to bypass dried-up riverbeds.
In the next few years, we will start to see the effect of the drought on fish in the ocean. Warmer water makes the fish harder to catch because they’re not concentrated in their normal areas. And we don’t yet know how many fish have reproduced in the rivers and creeks … and how many will make it back.
The Salmon’s Life Cycle:
The fish swim up the river and spawn, those baby salmon grow into smolts and work their way down to the ocean within a year or two. They spend five or six years in the ocean, and then they go back up the river they were born in to spawn again and die. If there’s no water, they can’t swim downstream to the ocean or back upstream to reproduce. We’re affected by the water conditions from five or six years ago. So we’ll see the effects of the drought in the next few years.
California wild and natural King Salmon is considered by many to be the finest member of the salmon family and extremely nutritious. “Fast” food facts:
less than 200 calories per 3-ounce portion
excellent source of quality protein (21 grams, 47% of the Recommended Daily Intake)
low in saturated fat and sodium
rich in vitamins and minerals
ocean-run California King salmon is also very rich in omega-3 fatty acids
Salmon can be grilled, baked, broiled, poached, microwaved, sautéed, smoked, canned, or eaten raw in sushi and as sashimi. It can be prepared with any of your favorite seasonings or marinades: simple or exotic, homemade or store-bought. Don’t think of it as only an entree; it can also be featured in chowders and soups, pastas, appetizers, salads and sandwiches. And most importantly, it pairs beautifully with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and bubbly!
Iron Horse Favorite Recipe: Whole Roasted Salmon in a Crust of Sea Salt
1-8Lb. Salmon, gutted, scaled and trimmed
salt and pepper
1 bunch fresh thyme
several fresh bay leaves
6 Lb. sea salt
extra virgin olive oil
zest of 4 lemons, finely chopped
Serves: 8 people
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Wash fish thoroughly, inside and out, and pat dry. Season the cavity of the fish with salt and pepper, the thyme and bay leaves.
Spread half the sea salt on the bottom of a large baking dish or half sheet tray. Place the fish and completely cover it from head to tail with the remaining salt. Put in the oven and bake 10 minutes per pound.
Remove from oven and let rest for 5 minutes. Brush away as much salt as possible from the fish. Then, using a sharp knife, gently remove and discard skin. With a thin spatula, remove the filets from along the backbone, place on a serving platter and drizzle with olive oil and lemon zest.
Serve with Iron Horse 2013 Chardonnay, 2012 Pinot Noir and/or 2011 Summer’s Cuvee
At Iron Horse, we wear our Pride on our sleeve…. and on our bottles, celebrating diversity with our 2010 Rainbow Cuvee. This second vintage of the vibrant, limited production bubbly delivers the celebratory experience that so perfectly pairs with this 45th anniversary of San Francisco Pride in our urban backyard ... and at the White House annual LGBT reception held June 24.
We are honored to be recognized as one of the top 6 most gay friendly winery in California.
On Saturday June 27, radio host Joel Riddell will be broadcasting live at the heart of the San Francisco festivities on Talk Radio 910 including a pre-taped interview about Iron Horse and the creation of Rainbow Cuvee. Stay tuned for more information on how to listen in.
San Francisco Pride occurs on June 27 - 28. The theme this year is “Equality without Exception”.
Here are some insider tips if you’re planning to attend.
1. Wear sunscreen.
2. Get to the parade early … it’s usually five people deep along the route.
3. Use Uber or take the bus. Do not try to park down there.
4. Obey the rules on nudity. (There aren’t any!)
5. Best bar for people watching, Twin Peaks at Castro and Market. It’s all glass and has a balcony.
6. Tune in to Dining Around with Joel Riddell on Saturday 1-3pm on iHeartRadio, Talk Station 910, KKSF.
7. For after the parade on Sunday, go to Disco Daddy at the SF Eagle. It will be the closest you can get to the spirit of “old Pride”. Sylvester, Dianna Ross, Grace Jones and the Village People will be channeled. $5 at the door, this is the best deal on Pride Day and walking distance from the parade.
8. Go see City Hall light up at night in the rainbow colors.
9. Get up to date on the “Alphabet Soup”. It’s not LGBT anymore. The latest is LGBTQQIA, which stands for Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender, Queer, Questioning, Intersex and Ally. By the way, Iron Horse is an ally.
10. Make sure you have your Rainbow Cuvee chilling at home. You’ll be ready for it when you get done.
The idea of Rainbow Cuvee is thanks to our friend and Direct to Consumer expert, Sonyia Grabski, inspired by the beauty of Gay Pride Flags fluttering in a June breeze.
The strong symbol and graphic direction provided the official colors which were carefully integrated with the Iron Horse brand by our label designer Mark Berry.
Mark presented six design variations to start the process. And in playing around with print techniques, our team discovered the option of an iridescent foil on the rainbow border. This element adds the festive and dynamic feeling that we wanted to convey the delicious flavors within and the larger message of our times.
For an insight into the design process, check out these interesting photos, showing the embossed base colors and the final foil stage.
Supplemental Reading for those who like a little FAQ FUN:
The Betsy Ross of the Rainbow Flag was San Francisco designer Gilbert Baker. It was first unfurled in 1978 at the Gay Freedom Day Parade. Legend has it that Baker was inspired by Judy Garland singing “Over the Rainbow” and the Stonewall riots that happened in New York shortly after Garland’s death.
The world's largest Pride celebration is in Sao Paulo, Brazil.
For a look back at attitudes and conventions before the Stonewall riots, here is an excellent article by David Dunlap in the New York Times.
It’s important to remember how much has changed in just the last decade … and exciting to celebrate that we are at a major tipping point in the march towards marriage equality, when the strength of national support has raised hopes of a Supreme Court ruling on the rights of same-sex couples to marry across the country.
Here's to the freedom of being yourself!
Here at Iron Horse we strive to catch every wave and today happens to be World Oceans Day - celebrated every June 8 across our blue planet. Now officially recognized by the United Nations, the date was originally proposed in 1992 by Canada at the Earth Summit in Rio de Janeiro.
Water has been a big topic for us this year. So it should come as no surprise that we are passionate about our ocean - the "heart" of our world. It connects us, regulates the climate, feeds millions of people, produces oxygen, is home to an incredible array of wildlife, provides important medicines, facilitates trade, and is so very beautiful. It’s imperative that we assume the responsibility to care for the ocean as it cares for us.
There are many ways to show some ocean love:
Cut back on using disposable plastic bags
Enter the UN’s photo contest
Go to the aquarium
Get involved in a community beach clean up
If you are lucky enough to be near the water, dive in
Just tweeting about the day spreads the word and gets people interested
Be mindful about your food choices. Educate yourself about sustainable seafood choices starting with this piece from Chef Barton Seaver here
Leverage the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch - a great resource
For the past five years, we’ve gone one step further to merge the oceans we love with what we do best. We will be toasting with our special 2010 Ocean Reserve Blanc de Blancs, which we produce in partnership with National Geographic.
$4 per bottle goes to NatGeo's Ocean Initiative, helping establish Marine Protected Areas and support sustainable fishing around the globe. It is a great source of pride that our contribution comes to about $220,000 in five years ... and counting.
The first vintage was welcomed with the inspirational Barton Seaver. As explained in this 2010 article here, the National Geographic fellow came to taste with us.
In one video, Barton elaborates on the nearby ocean’s impact on Iron Horse "meroire"… he also conveniently presents a grill-friendly pairing recipe where sustainably farmed seafood appropriately takes center stage. The must-watch video is here.
Barton was an ideal partner in the creation of this cuvee and his words on the topic encapsulate the larger mission of our efforts perfectly:
"The oceans are in all of us and are in all that we hold dear. The wine with which we celebrate World Oceans Day was in fact grown in deposits of ancient marine life, the juice of the grapes itself a product of our oceans and a testament to the power of the oceans to sustain our reality."
In fact, Barton believes how we eat and drink is the first step towards environmental responsibility. He has been known to explain, “Deliciousness is the first line of environmentalism.” And of course the ocean plays a major role in our signature Iron Horse winemaking. The nearby Pacific (only 13 miles as the crow flies) is the driver of our special microclimate that allows us to make unparalleled Sparkling Wine with bright acidity and brilliant aromas.
Today, take a moment to meditate on the ocean’s role in everyday life.
Ocean Day Fast Facts:
Oceans cover three quarters of the Earth’s surface, contain 97% of the Earth’s water, and represent 99% of the living space on the planet by volume
Over three billion people depend on marine and coastal biodiversity for their livelihoods
Globally, the market value of marine and coastal resources and industries is estimated at $3 trillion per year or about 5% of global GDP
Oceans contain nearly 200,000 identified species, but actual numbers may lie in the millions
Oceans absorb about 30% of carbon dioxide produced by humans, buffering the impacts of global warming
Oceans serve as the world’s largest source of protein, with more than 2.6 billion people depending on the oceans as their primary source of protein
Marine fisheries directly or indirectly employ over 200 million people
As much as 40% of the world oceans are heavily affected by human activities - pollution, depleted fisheries, and loss of coastal habitats
As you digest these bubbly fast facts do what Mother Nature would want…. pair them with a special bottle of bubbles. Each sip of 2010 Oceans Reserve Blanc de Blanc is made even more wonderful with the knowledge that you’re donating to a beautiful blue cause.
World Oceans Day Organization here
Q&A with National Geographic Explorer-in-Residence Enric Sala here
Bio of Barton Seaver, chef, author and National Geographic Fellow here
The National Geographic webpage dedicated to our Ocean Reserve Sparkling here
Iron Horse being served this week at National Geographic’s Explorers Symposium in Washington, DC. Event details here
Wine is fashion in many ways. There are clear trends.
Right now, bubbles are “in”. And we are enjoying every minute of it!
According to Tim Fish in the upcoming June 15 issue of Wine Spectator:
“This is an exciting moment for California bubbly. Sales have jumped in recent years, and the state's producers continue to push the envelope on quality, developing new niche bottlings while preserving their reputation for value.”
The consumption figures above from the California Wine Institute are are real through 2013. We then continued upward with our “expert extrapolation” that we will cross the 20,000,000 case mark this year.
For a comprehensive study on the rise of bubbles, I recommend reading: Corks Popping as Sparkling Wines Sales Surge
This surge has several contributors. One is Prosecco. For many, that fruity, user-friendly Italian wine is a gateway to more complex bubbles.
Another is the mass appreciation for handcrafted, small batch drinks across the board in categories like wine, beer, cider, and spirits. Two representative examples are limited edition Iron Horse cuvees: 2010 Summit Cuvee & 2010 Rainbow Cuvee.
Summit Cuvee commemorates the unprecedented free-climb of the Dawn Wall of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, California - the realization of a dream and an inspiration. Only 300 cases have been produced.
Rainbow Cuvee celebrates marriage equality. This is our second vintage of this special, small production bubbly. We are very proud that the inaugural release was served at the White House LGBT reception last June. Total production is just 250 cases.
Rosés are a special niche. Ours is very striking, both in color and taste. It’s a dark rose, bottled in clear glass. Originally awarded 93 points by Robert Parker, the 2007 vintage now has six plus years less aging. The most recent disgorging is 5/4/15.
Serious fans increasingly call for ultra brut or no dosage, like our Brut X, which is a 500 case production.
Most exciting to me is the breadth of interesting bubblies today. Not just Grande Marques, and even beyond Grower Champagne, the next “big thing”, according to Wine & Spirits Magazine is “Somm Sparklings.”
Wine & Spirit’s Associate Publisher Samantha Groseth has this to say on the topic:
“Some of the most interesting intelligence we gather from our Annual Restaurant Poll comes in the wines that most excite sommeliers. In 2015, we heard a lot of chatter about sparkling wine, and not just grower Champagne — sparkling wine is on the minds’ of America’s sommeliers, whether it’s from the Loire, California, Finger Lakes, Italy or Jura.”
Iron Horse was included in this category at the debut Somm Sparkling Table at Wine & Spirits’ annual Top of the List Tasting. A true honor. There were about a dozen to taste, right next to the Grand Central Oyster Bar station - Herman Wiener Blanc de Blancs no dosage, from the Finger Lakes, which is poured by the glass at NoMad, Gruet from New Mexico, Raventos, Domaines de la Berjorie and Baumard, both cremants de Loire, Murgo Etna Rosso, from Sicily, that was very unusual, Banfi, La Marca Prosecco and La Spinetta Moscato d’Asti.
It was Iron Horse and Roederer Estate from California. Ours was certainly the most fun table at the tasting.
Going back to Tim Fish’s article in Spectator, Tim makes the point that the bubbly business is increasingly year-round:
“Many people think of bubbly in connection to Christmas and New Year's Eve, but it's also enjoyable as a summer drink. Sparkling wine has always been about summer for me.”
My family and I are very proud that Iron Horse ranks among Tim’s personal favorites on his blog.
IRON HORSE 2010 Classic Vintage Brut, Green Valley of Russian River Valley, $42. 91 points. Supple and richly styled, with tart apple and spiced hazelnut aromas leading to Meyer lemon, brioche and zesty cinnamon flavors.
IRON HORSE 2010 Russian Cuvee, Green Valley of Russian River Valley, $42. 90 points. A plush style, with a lingering hint of sweetness balanced by solid acidity. Offers accents of ripe Meyer lemon, toasted cinnamon and almond brioche
IRON HORSE 2010 Wedding Cuvee, Green Valley of Russian River Valley, $42. 91 points. A serious bubbly but fun to drink with lively and floral raspberry flavors.
More and more people now think about bubbly as a wine … to be enjoyed year round with food. As we like to say here at Iron Horse: #notjustforbreakfastanymore.
“You never miss the water till the well has run dry.” Irish Proverb
1,900 wells have gone dry in California as we dive further into a four year drought. That’s about 1% of the state’s wells, with the greatest concentration in the Fresno area. Groundwater levels continue dropping, in some places as much as 10 feet. For the first time in nearly a century, farmers who normally receive canal water from the Fresno Irrigation District will get no regular deliveries. As one Fresno Irrigation District farmer conceded in the Fresno Bee, “You can’t release water you don’t have.”
Essentially - water will be flowing in the canals but will NOT be available for on-farm use. A shocking image. Law abiding farmers wishing to avoid fines will have to turn on their pump and pray for sufficient groundwater to make it through the season.
The water that is available has been repurposed - tasked with recharging underground aquifers and directed to surface water treatment plants.
As a member of the California State Board of Food and Agriculture, appointed by the Governor, I attended a public forum on the drought last week in Fresno.
The event’s big takeaway: mandatory restrictions will become a way of life.
(pictured above - Marin Hills turning gold prematurely - a phenomenon we usually see in August)
Here’s a snapshot of information shared by government officials:
California Business, Consumer Services and Housing Agency Secretary Anna Caballero estimated 4,000 residents don’t have access to water because wells have run dry. She said, "It's obviously a health crisis and we want to make sure we're doing everything we can to provide resources to be able to avoid that." (Source)
Mark Ghilarducci, director of the Governor's Office of Emergency Services, provided updates on the government’s drought relief and conservation plans, water efficiency programs and increased funding for research and development of new technology. (Source)
Ghilarducci hinted that further cuts may become necessary if it doesn’t look like people are saving enough to meet the state’s targets. Governor Jerry Brown’s April executive order requires an across-the-board 25 percent reduction in the state’s water use by February 2016. (Source)
I had expected fights to break out at the meeting. My first hope was that everyone would be asked to park their guns at the door. Instead, we heard mainly sad stories:
One rural homeowner spoke of groundwater concerns, saying:
"The water table dropped two feet a year for 70 years and right now it's dropping at eight feet a year." He dug a new well that goes down 400 feet and figures he is OK for the time being. But realizes many others won’t be.
There was a shared and vocal concern about the blame being heaped on agriculture.
An almond grower called the criticism “hyperbolic attacks.”
CDFA Board President Craig McNamara, a walnut grower, posted on the CDFA’s “Planting Seeds” blog:
“Those holding that point of view may believe that farmers and ranchers consume more than their fair share of water. While it’s easy to cast blame, let’s not forget that irrigation wells have gone dry, lifelong investments are dying in the fields and serious financial burdens are hanging overhead.”
Secretary of Agriculture Karen Ross wrote an OpEd piece in the Modesto Bee asking: What happens to Ag water? Eventually people eat and drink it. (Source) The piece opens up with this statement:
“A recent survey by the Farm Water Coalition indicated that 41 percent of California’s irrigated farmland will lose 80 percent of its surface water in 2015 due to cutbacks because of the drought. Add that to a reduction of more than 30 percent last year and it’s obvious that farmers and ranchers have suffered the brunt of drought-related losses, so far.”
As the crisis continues to evolve, expand and worsen in dangerous new ways, all Californians need to become involved in the drought conversation. Acreage, livelihoods, health, and the environment are being threatened.
Our next Board meeting is Tuesday June 2 at CDFA headquarters in Sacramento, beginning at 10am with participation from New York Times Columnist Mark Bittman as well as representatives from Mother Jones, Grist and Gizmodo. As always, it is open to the public for comment.
A horrifying headline.
And a must read. I actually found the Op Ed in last Sunday’s NY Times to be very balanced…. its concluding paragraph espousing everything I believe.
“The drought may indeed be a long overdue bill for creating an oasis civilization. But therein lies a solution. The Golden State is an invention, with lives to match. If the drought continues, California will be forced to rely even more on what has long sustained it — imagination. Not a bad thing to have too much of.”
Imagination and innovation -- these are the precious resources which have historically made California rich and famous. I wholeheartedly believe they are the attributes which will ultimately resolve the drought crisis.
Just last month, California launched a push to stimulate aggressive drought fighting innovation. A spokesman for the California Energy Commission says the program will begin this summer.
In a demonstration of the fact that necessity is truly the mother of invention, innovators are working on disruptive technologies to optimize Mother Earth’s gifts.
1) water conveyance systems
3) on-site water reuse
4) high tech approaches to more efficient water use in agriculture.
The governor unveiled the latest version of his proposal to build two underground tunnels at 40 feet wide and 35 miles long in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta.
A French engineering and construction firm has proposed a flexible undersea pipeline.
Pro: This would carry water from two NorCal rivers to cities down the coast, addressing dire need
Con: Sky-high construction costs tabled this project in 1975 when originally considered
Elon Musk’s Tesla Motors is sparking a renewable power revolution by translating their famed car technology for the residential/commercial market. He’s seeking to slash the current water demands for power generation with battery packs linked to a solar power system.
Pro: Musk asserts that his water saving batteries will play an important role in ending fossil fuel dependence and global warming trends. Tesla stationary energy storage systems are already in beta testing in residential/commercial/winery environments
Con: Like the car, this Tesla technology is not cheap and infrastructural changes required to make the technology go mainstream are daunting
A few more exciting prospects I’m keeping my eye on....
1) USA: Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory researchers have developed a new capacitive desalination technique. The project could ultimately lower the cost & time of desalinating seawater.
2) AUSTRALIA: The country has constructed eight “desal” plants during their (perish the thought) 15 year drought.
3) ISRAEL: Scientists are currently running the world’s largest and cheapest reverse-osmosis desalination plant.
While scanning the globe for solutions and finding inspiration in the indomitable spirit of fellow Californians, my family and I leverage the natural gifts in our own backyard as we wait for necessity to provide. At our Iron Horse Vineyards, we use advanced treated water from the town of Forestville and recycled water from the winery to charge our reservoir for frost protection and irrigation.
An unlikely hero is emerging in this arena -- earthworms. The efforts of the tiny organisms provide an organic solution to treating thousands of gallons of wastewater each day from wineries. Even the smallest among us will deserve praise when the history of our crisis is written.
What part will you play?
Last week’s Holy Water blog installment triggered community conversation on important related reading. I hope this week’s installment spurs conversation about the place of technology in this battle. I will continue to keep you updated as California drought coverage and state action plans develop. Let’s keep this urgently needed conversation alive #EndofCalifornia
Happy Birthday to Iron Horse co-founder Audrey M. Sterling, who turns 84 on May 5. The Cinco de Mayo birth date always encouraged the family to joke that the entire country of Mexico is celebrating with her.
Audrey is as dynamic & sparkling as Iron Horse cuvees and her elegance, grace, and humor has always pushed both the family and our family business forward. Her favorite Iron Horse wine is our Classic Vintage Brut and she has always said that Pinot Noir is her “baby.”
A bit of #throwbackthursday appropriate background: Audrey is a native San Franciscan and a fourth generation Californian. She attended Lowell High School and Stanford University, where she met Barry. She served as Fair Employment Practices Commissioner for the State of California under Governor Pat Brown and spent almost four years fighting discrimination in employment and housing.
The Sterlings moved to France in 1967, where she became the first and only person I know to have visited every single gallery in the Louvre. I now wear the gorgeous couture gowns she collected in Paris.
Audrey was a more than equal partner in the founding of Iron Horse. She ran the vineyard, overseeing the building of the winery and restoration of the Victorian home on the property while Barry commuted to Los Angeles to practice law and was lovingly regarded as the family’s “cash crop.” In fact, they chose to settle on the West County because of their shared love of Burgundies and my mother’s knowledge of the area’s cool, foggy climate which makes it so perfect for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
The name on the 1983 application for federal recognition of Green Valley as an official American Viticultural Area (AVA) was Audrey M. Sterling and her attorney of record was Barry H. Sterling.
My mother has impeccable taste and has set the vineyard standards from the beginning. All of our wines have to pass muster with her and Barry. And best practice with “tough customers” is to bring them home for lunch for Mother to win them over. Her personal goal for Iron Horse is for our wines to be the most expensive on the wine list.
Her influence and involvement are inestimable. The vineyard’s great partnership with National Geographic is thanks to my Mother. She and Nat Geo’s Chairman Emeritus Gil Grosvenor were tablemates at a lunch at the Field Museum in Chicago and in the course of conversation found out they share the same birthday … day and year. Thus a friendship was born.
Ten years ago, we celebrated their 75th birthday at a gala in Washington D.C. The Society helped us launch our annual Earth Day event in 2007 and four years later we created the first vintage of Ocean Reserve Blanc de Blancs, which benefits National Geographic’s Ocean Initiative. $4 a bottle goes to help establish marine protected areas and support sustainable fishing around the globe.
Audrey Sterling is my hero. Every day, I look in the mirror and wish that I will “grow up” to be just like her. The Sterling family looks forward to bringing you into our sparkling family history.
Holy Water is an essay written by Joan Didion in 1979. In a sentence, it’s about being obsessed with water. A feeling we know too well these days. Joan Didion for me is a quintessential California writer like Wallace Stegner, John Steinbeck, Jack London, Mark Twain – the sole woman in the pantheon.
Mainly, look at how cool she is:
And NOW, as a model for the Céline ads in all the fashion magazines - Vogue, Elle, W, Harpers Bazaar
Her essay Holy Water is a great read … or re-read in this time of extreme drought. I highly, highly recommend it. If you have a moment, tweet me what you think using @IronHorseVyds, @joybubbles and #HolyWater.
As a member of the Food and Agriculture Board, I get a daily compilation of 20 or more links to every news story, fact sheet, white paper and blog being written about water, drought, fish, almonds, desalination, cemetery water use, etc. So far, my favorite is an interactive map that shows water use by water district. It’s interesting to see the variation across the state. Click here for the map from The New York Times.
Among friends, casual dinner table conversation frequently turns to personal water saving tips. One friend, who lives in Belvedere, says she lines up buckets in the shower to catch what you would normally let go down the drain until the water gets warm. Another, says his wife got him to put tall plastic trash cans all over their lawn to capture and store rainfall. He now refers to this installation as yard art. “My wife might let the lawn go, but never the roses”, he says.
These tips bring to mind another must-read: Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands and Beyond by Brad Lancaster, in case you are considering building a cistern.
“Not many people I know carry their end of the conversation when I want to talk about water deliveries,” wrote Didion in 1979. In 2015, just about everyone I know can hold their own on that topic! We are acutely aware how water deliveries directly affect our personal lives. Back then, swimming pools were easy targets as symbols of excessive water use. The war cry in the North was “we don’t want our water going to fill the swimming pools of Beverly Hills."
Today’s villains are the almond growers. Everyone is shocked to learn that it takes a gallon of water to grow one almond … and that 90% of California almonds get exported. But it is too facile to point fingers. Here is an excellent article from The Guardian that provides a balanced view. It presents the argument of an almond grower through exploring a case study. The piece tracks a family-owned almond farm which began investing in water efficiency decades before it was "cool." Sounds like a beautiful vineyard in Green Valley I know....
I am optimistic.
For one thing, the board I sit on is very active in advising the Governor. A positive sign that our leadership is open to diverse and expert inputs. Number two, the state is facing the issue head on… as is every local agency. Every asset, every resource is being thrown into the fight. Everyone in a position to make a difference is working very hard and they are all very, very smart.
As the Governor said at our Celebrate Earth Day in Green Valley event, “Don’t worry about the drought. Just don’t use too much water.”
I will continue to keep you updated as California drought coverage and state action plans develop. Let’s keep this urgently needed conversation alive #HolyWater
It’s not every day I start off the week with an Iron Horse “shout out” from the Office of the First Lady. I’m proud to announce that our wine - 2007 Russian River Cuvee - will be poured at Tuesday evening’s State Dinner for the Prime Minister of Japan.
As I’m sure you know, an invitation to a White House state dinner is one of Washington's most sought-after “tickets”. VIP guests resplendent in black tie and designer gowns dine on an impeccably concepted four-course meal served by America's most famous kitchen.
The news that Iron Horse has a ticket as a featured VIP beverage came during an 11AM EST press preview for the State Dinner, led by Michelle Obama (ending speculation over which “patriotic tasting wine” would be chosen). Find the menu announcement here. The guest chef is Masaharu Morimoto. The tables will be decorated with cherry blossoms that symbolize the friendship between the US and Japan … and each place setting will have a set of red lacquered chopsticks.
The First Lady unveiled the menu along with the Obama state china service which she had a hand in designing. The china introduces a special blue inspired by the waters of Hawaii being called “Kailua blue” and the service was made by Pickard China, of Antioch, Illinois. The President was born in Hawaii and Illinois is the First Lady’s home state. Find the Architectural Digest spotlight on the china here.
Iron Horse is “at home” in the elegant State Dining Room during this Obama administration which has been selective with their schedule of State Dinners. They’ve hosted the fewest since the Truman administration, which seems to assign each event heightened historical significance. Our wine was served at the State Dinner for India in November 2009 (It paired wonderfully with the post-meal Beyoncé performance!) as well as the State Dinner for David Cameron in March 2012. Traditionally, Iron Horse is served as the toasting wine, at the end of the meal.
The Iron Horse relationship with the Obamas continues our vineyard’s tradition of strong White House relations. Iron Horse has been a favorite going back 30 years and five consecutive Presidential Administrations. Something we’re very proud of. Stay tuned as we continue to chronicle all exciting elements of this soiree - from the bubbles to the fashion & entertainment - with the hashtag #IronHorseintheWhiteHouse
Welcome to the second installment of our Star Chef Blog Series. We’ve begun a regular blog series sharing Q&As with our most special friends who serve Iron Horse cuvees in their restaurants or in this case -- at State Department functions. We’ve interviewed Iron Horse's great friend, State Department Chef Jason Larkin, to get his take on food pairings which might accompany Iron Horse sparklings & wines in a large group setting.
Starting at Blair House (the official guesthouse of the President) under Secretary Condoleezza Rice, Jason was quickly identified as a rising star capable of running special functions at the State Department for the incoming Hillary Clinton. Hillary championed the concept of “soft power” where treaties were signed over the dinner table and food & wine credited as a diplomatic tool. Thus, Jason was tasked with growing the program that is powering delicious diplomatic affairs. He ended the practice of exporting tasks like selecting wine pairings by taking it on himself and in doing so he defined a fresh path forward for the State Department which relies on local ingredients and commitment to variety. He almost never repeats a dish.
When concepting a menu for specific meals with world leaders, he aims to highlight American flavors and brands which both showcase our uniqueness and an understanding of the visitor’s culinary transitions. Lucky for us, Jason is a valued Iron Horse fan who famously features Iron Horse wines at very high profile State Department and Presidential events.
When we called Jason up we challenged him to walk us through a large group friendly food pairing for a variety of our wines. Here’s what we learned….
Iron Horse Interview with Jason Larkin
Iron Horse: What attracts you to regularly leverage Iron Horse productions in your Diplomatic Reception Rooms?
Jason Larkin: I just love Iron Horse wine - period. Every wine I’ve ever had has been food friendly and goes well with a large variety of dishes. Any opportunity I have to serve them, I reach out.
Iron Horse: You’ve featured Iron Horse products at extremely newsworthy State Department events, tell us why.
Jason Larkin: I serve Iron Horse at the most high profile, Presidential functions because of their consistently high caliber. The bottles themselves have beautiful labels and there’s frequently an amazing tie-in with the guest or the event itself. When China’s then Vice President Xi visited in 2012, the Iron Horse Chinese Cuvee was the perfect pairing. The gold and red label invoked good fortune.
The next year, after Mr. Xi became President of China, we chose Iron Horse again for the working dinner hosted by President Obama at the Annenberg Estate in Southern California.
Iron Horse: How are you planning to leverage Iron Horse in the next few weeks?
Jason Larkin: We have a lot of environmental events coming up, including meetings with people who are invested in the care of the oceans. So I’m looking forward to serving the Ocean Reserve Blanc de Blanc at the Oceans Conference.
I was also very excited to offer Iron Horse Sparkling as well as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir at this week's Diplomatic Culinary Partnership Event kick-off produced along with the James Beard Foundation. We’re launching the US Pavillion at the Milan Expo which is titled “American Food 2.0” and serves to highlight the best of American cuisine and creativity.
Iron Horse: Can you explain a bit about the The Diplomatic Culinary Partnership and the American Chef Corps groups which will be enjoying our wines and sparklings at the event?
Jason Larkin: The Diplomatic Culinary Partnership and the American Chef Corps are some of the most unique and delicious programs we have here at State. Participating chefs are respected as diplomats who foster a cross-cultural exchange by interacting with internationals.
As John Kerry said at the event, “There is absolutely something about good food that brings people together, and that’s what diplomacy is all about…[meals] are a critical part of our ability to be able to do business and talk and break bread and break down barriers and listen to each other and understand culture, history, and really dig underneath all the policy issues...literally some of the most candid and productive conversations that I have had have been over a good meal in somebody’s country.”
Iron Horse: Can you disclose the menu of what was served to accompany our Iron Horse Classic Vintage Brut, Native Yeast Chardonnay and Deer Gate Pinot Noir?
Jason Larkin: Here are the food offerings from the vendors and chefs ---
Steak Tartare American
Raw Beef Sirloin, Parker House Roll
Created by José Andrés
Merguez Stuffed Lamb Rib
Saffron Braised Celery, Baby Artichokes and Grilled Yogurt
Created by Mike Isabella
Lobster Deviled Egg
Rainbow Hill Farm Organic Eggs topped with Ossetra Caviar
Created by Jamie Leeds
Puri-spiced Avocado filled in a whole meal puffed biscuit
Sweet Yogurt, Date Tamarind Chutney
Created by Vikram Sunderam
(CHEF’S NOTE: “I know the avocado dish is a wild one, I would probably enjoy it with a lager beer. But of course sparkling goes with just about everything!”)
Iron Horse: Finally, is that Iron Horse Classic Vintage Brut in Secretary Kerry’s glass for his toast?
Jason Larkin: Yes, absolutely, what a great moment! He was giving remarks and wanted to do an impromptu toast to the chefs so one of his people ran to the bar (which I happened to be standing next to, of course) and grabbed one of the glasses that was pre-poured.