Chef's Blog

February 2008

It was about 7 a m by the time I rolled out of bed my first morning in Kep, a small Cambodian fishing village on the Gulf of Thailand prized for its small, mouthwatering crabs and exquisite peppercorns. I had arrived the afternoon before by way of bus from Phnom Penn. I then had to flag a tuk tuk from the quiet seaside dock the bus had dropped me in front of. My lack of fluency in Cambodian ‘bus-driver speak’ had led me to an early exit about 20 minutes from my actual stop but with towns an hour apart, and buses only once a day, it was wise to play it safe and put sandal on ground whenever possible. Besides after more than three hours in a stuffy bus rolling down dirt roads, the open-air luxury of a small three-wheeled carriage was actually appreciated. The sky was blue with big clouds and the smell of the ocean filled my head. I had nothing in my stomach but green mangos and chili salt and iced fresh sugar cane juice; I was hungry.

Kep is a tiny town. It is mostly just a place where four large divided avenues come together next to a ¼ mile long stretch of beach, walled like a small Riviera built by the French a long time ago. Behind the handful of villas that dot the first half-mile inland lie mountains covered in jungle and protected as a Cambodian National Park. The crabs the locals harvest are like a cross between a small Dungeness and a soft shell, they are almost always stir-fried in a wok with fresh bunches of green Kampot peppercorns and they are mind-blowing. It was the just the kind of s e Asian culinary experience I had come for, the previous evening having seen the crabs being hauled in just passed the market, I now wanted to complete the circle and find the source of the spice. 

As I ate breakfast in the open-air dining room/lobby/pool hall of the really groovy Kep Lodge, I could hear monkeys and birds high up in the trees overhead and my view was of the sea and distant Mt. Boker. I had a motor bike waiting for me in the little dirt parking lot next to the lodge’s grove of Jack Fruit trees and after being reassured by the kid at the front desk that if I followed his home made map of the province I couldn’t get lost. I was ready for my adventure. I was ready to find the Kampot Pepper plantation. Kampot province covers a good chunk of territory between the Cambodia/Vietnam border and Sihanoukeville. It contains rugged hillsides, pastures, lakes and Limestone caves, some complete with underground rivers and ancient hidden Buddahs. I would get to all that soon enough but first I wanted to see what French chefs for years have considered to be the finest black pepper in the world.

 Although everyone told me how much better the roads are now than years past, it was still slow going on a dirt track no more than 10 feet across (with pot holes so deep you could burry a basket ball without digging) and trucks and busses never seeming to touch their brakes. However, riding in country so beautiful going slowly was just what I needed as I passed lotus covered ponds, palm groves and Durian trees. I followed the map and took a right at the small village next to the highway, there I was approximately 2 miles from the left I needed to take into the hills on what was little more than a mountain biking trail used by jeeps, trucks and motorbikes alike.

It was hard to watch the road and take in the sweeping view south as I rose into the mountains. The road was a chalk-like, white dust and the rainy seasons runoff had found a place right down the center. But the level of strength and concentration it took to gain altitude only added to the invigoration. I was seeing more and more agriculture growing on the mountains to my left and I had a clear view of the Gulf, a number of islands and the low lying plains of Kampot province and Vietnam off to my right. I had just stopped to get a better look when I noticed the first trestles of the plantation slightly hidden beyond the next bend. With the breeze from the ocean ever so slight, I could see what had attracted French colonists to this particular spot, as it was almost Mediterranean in feel. It was hot outside but the light was soft and the pepper plants provided a nice shade as I cruised up the long drive, parked the Honda and waved hello to the gentleman walking towards me.

 Pepper plants grow in vines up high wooden rods and the peppercorns themselves shoot off these vines in what look like little, green elongated clusters of grapes, as if someone took a miniature bunch of Chardonnay and pulled it until the grapes were all on top of each other, still attached, but in no more than twos. The Cambodians, as well as the Thai and Vietnamese, use a great percentage of their pepper fresh, still green and in its entirety. That is they don’t spend time separating the corns, but just throw the clusters into stir-fry and soups whole. As a chef in Northern California, my experience with green peppercorns has always been limited to a brined product that is much hotter and cloying on the palate. Here I was, at the beckoning of the owner, eating right off the plant itself and enjoying something as basic as one of the most used condiments in any kitchen (black pepper) but tasting something brand new and fantastic. There was a kind of lushness inside the pepper, definitely a green vegetable flavor but also of spicy cashew and a little clove and allspice. I couldn’t believe that I had actually found this place and was hanging with the owner on a private tour. What a beautiful map!

 As my quiet guide lead me to the drying shed, we walked passed his dozen or so Durian trees and through a flock of some rather meager looking chickens. He explained to me as best he could in what little English he spoke that if the peppercorns are not harvested green they are left on the plant until they turn bright red. Then they are picked and set out to dry, as they harden they turn black. One thing about these Kampot’s is that they still retain a bit of their red color even when black, when eaten dried, the vegetative flavor is gone but the nuttiness is more pronounced, with even more island spice and a good amount of heat. They are a very seductive spice indeed.

I bought a kilo from the man and thanked him kindly for his time. I slathered on some more SPF 35 and tried not to run over his chickens on my way down his drive. By this time the sun was high in the sky and I had put away the homemade map. I was careful with my new cargo on board and I felt a little like Jack with his magic beans as took the right turn down the mountain. Way off in the distance I could see a great reservoir, limestone peaks and a small outcropping of houses near the highway. I was ready to go back to Kep. I was ready to wash off the dust with a swim, stash my treasure and eat my dinner at the crab market.

September 2007

 Its full on harvest time and the garden is going off! We have our annual garden party planned later this month and it will be a great opportunity for our wine club to come and see what is growing and how I prepare simple dishes using this wonderful bounty. In the meantime I am cooking harvest lunches showcasing peppers of every color, wonderful heirloom varieties of melons and tomatoes, cucumbers and eggplants and of course lettuces and radishes. This time of year we seem to do a lot more washing (of vegetables) than actually cooking and it is really a special thing. The weather has been perfect for serving long lunches of buttered radishes topped with sea salt followed by raw cucumber salads, mesquite grilled eggplant panini with gypsy pepper relish, Tomato salad with 6 kinds of basil and home made olive oil, crepes stuffed with goat cheese and sautéed Romanesco broccoli crisped in a bit of local duck fat, and melons, lots of melons for dessert. Everyone is working hard with a positive attitude and it’s a treat to see the hustle and bustle of a great winery in the middle of harvest every morning as I get to work. I am savoring every minute of what is left of this summer as I move cheerfully into fall.

 What I am listening to in the kitchen: 

Besnard Lakes (The Besnard Lakes Are The Dark Horse)

Jason Isbell (Sirens Of The Ditch)

Van Occupanther (The Trials Of Van Occupanther)

Kanye West (Graduation)   

Harvest Lunch September 2, 2007

At the long table in the corral under the trees 

Caponata on Crostini 

Chilled Estate Corn Soup with Bellwether Crème Fraiche and Apples  

Pinot Vine Grilled Lamb Tenderloin with Estate Beans and Chicory 

Estate Grapes, Melons and Berries 

August 27, 2007

I can’t believe it has been almost a month since I promised the recipe for the gazpacho shooters. A testament to how fast time moves in the Iron Horse kitchen in summer. August has had no lack of highlights for me, as the Russian River Pinot Forum and the Chillin ‘and Grillin’ event for the wine club were a blast. For those of you who are interested, here is the menu for the forum:

Russian River Pinot Forum 2007-

Passed-

White Peaches with Shiso

Radishes with Strauss Butter and Sea Salt

From The Big Grill-

Sambal Brushed Fulton Valley Chicken Skewers

Marinated Summer Squash and Green Peppers

Smoked Paprika and Coriander Rubbed Baby Back Ribs

Iron Horse Estate Salads-

Heirloom Tomatoes with Mixed Basil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Sea Salt

Mixed Chicories with Aged Balsamic, Persian Lemon Essence and Walnut Oil

Grilled Eggplant with Feta Cheese, Pine Nuts and Mint

Local Cheese and Breads-

Pt. Reyes Original Blue and Sebastopol Honey Torte

Redwood Hill Chevre and Wild Blackberries

Wild Flour Bakery Flatbreads

Scharffenberger Chocolate Served with Coffee

For my friends who have asked for the Gazpacho recipe, thank you for being patient.

Yellow Watermelon and Ginger Gazpacho

1 medium sized yellow watermelon (about 4-5 pounds)

1 large white onion

3-4 cloves garlic

1 large hand of ginger

1 English cucumber

2-3 jalapeños

½ cup rice wine vinegar

1-cup olive oil

½ bunch of cilantro

Salt and pepper to taste

For this recipe you will need two bowls and a blender. Start by peeling and seeding the watermelon. Cut the melon into chunks that will fit your blender easily (this means rather small) and place in a bowl A. Mince the white onion and place half in bowl A and half in bowl B. Mince garlic and ginger and add to bowl A. Mince cucumber and jalapeños (seeds removed) and add to bowl B. Place contents of bowl A in a blender and puree with vinegar and olive oil. This can be done in batches (don’t overcrowd). Add puree to bowl B (this is the soup). Refrigerate soup overnight for max flavor. Mince cilantro and add to soup along with the salt and pepper. Do to the fluctuation in sweetness of watermelons this recipe must be tinkered with throughout the year. Don’t be afraid to make adjustments. Makes about 10-12 small bowls or a couple dozen shooters.

Note: Add Soju for a refreshing summer cocktail.

July 31, 2007

Wow, what a great event Sunday night! Thanks to all who participated, this cuveé’s for you! The weather, needless to say cooperated in a most amazing fashion and the band set a tone of enchantment that no one present will soon forget. I had a blast knowing what fun was going on beyond the latticed outdoor kitchen. Everyone working performed a task above and beyond anything we have done at the winery since I have been on board.

Many of you asked about the shooters so I’d love to post that recipe as well as a few more from the evening very soon. This is just a note of extreme excitement and gratitude.

Cheers!! Chef

July 25, 2007

Well its always easy to tell when the summer season at Iron Horse is really cookin’… just look at the chef’s last blog entry. I know, I know its been a long time and I’ve promised many of you recipes and technique and updates on the general state of the “Big House” kitchen. Well, this is me making good.

There is no doubt about it the last few days have been hot, full on, put the Pinot Noir in an ice bucket hot. This means that my plate presentations get a bit simpler and smaller as appetites wane. I prefer to serve simple tomato salads with olive oil, sea salt and a garnish of lime juice and avocado or cold soups made of roasted peppers, cucumbers and a touch of sherry vinegar. With the hot weather the lettuce patch always begins to bolt so we are always eating lots and lots of big, tasty salads. The radishes are beautiful right now so I’m pairing those, slathered in butter and sea salt with frosty flutes of bubbles and the beets that grow just a row to the left are coming along nicely and should be ready to roast and serve cold in a salad with Tarragon and chevre in no time.

I speak for the entire kitchen staff when I say that we all had such a great time cooking for everyone at the garden party last month. Such a fantastic morning to visit, eat and drink. Many of you asked about my preparation of the salmon and I want to pass that along to you now. It doesn’t get much simpler than this. The most important part of the process is at the market; make sure you get the absolute freshest product possible. Remember, fish mongers have a job to do and that is to move first in first out, talk to them, let them know what you want, ask them if anything has come in that day, they will oblige you, they want to make the sale. O.k., now that’s done and you have a screaming fresh piece of fish. Preheat your oven to 450 degrees, clean up the fish, no bones, no skin, but leave it in as big of a piece as possible (remember it has to fit in the pan). Heat a large heavy sauté pan over high heat and add olive oil. Salt and pepper fish all over and when oil in pan starts to shimmer and let off just a tiny hint of smoke, carefully add salmon spine side down (skin side up) and sear until a nice crust forms (a good 3-4 minutes). At this time you can flip the fish and place the entire pan in the oven for another 3-4 minutes just until 75% cooked through, still pink in the middle but just starting to flake. If the pan will not fit in the oven just transfer fish to a sheet pan, likewise if you are preparing for a crowd, sear many pieces in pan one at a time and then transferring each piece to the sheet pan until all can go in the oven together to finish. Serve the fish as soon as you can, as it does not rest well once out of the oven. Learning this simple technique should result in perfectly cooked Salmon every time.  I hope this helps, as always I am always available by email to answer any of your kitchen questions.

I am now working on all of the preparation for the Full Moon Soiree on Sunday. I am really looking forward to this dinner, as it is such a great representation of summer dinning in Western Sonoma County. The menu is in place and will consist of four courses plus surprises to start and finish and of course it is all paired beautifully with new, outstanding wines like the Unoaked Chardonnay and the BDX 3. This will be a “localvores” dream as we all dine 20 feet from the winery and 200 feet above the garden.

May 17, 2007

As most of you know, I wear two (at least) hats at the vineyard. Obviously the one that is most visible is my job as executive chef, planning and executing large lunches and dinners as well as events such as Earth Day, Russian River Pinot Forum and in years past the Paulee as part of the Hospice of Sonoma. As patrons of the winery, loyal followers of all things Pinot and Chardonnay, and, hopefully, wine club members you know this work and see me in the throws of it on a regular basis throughout the year. The part that is hidden to the public and a great privilege for me is my time as personal chef to the Sterling family and the guests that they often bring to the table with them. It is here that I can cook and create dishes using the smallest of batches of ingredients and utilizing skills and techniques that would be next to impossible for large parties. Imagine a small basket of Strawberries, picked at the peak of ripeness and warm from the morning sun served as dessert just minutes after being clipped from the plant or the perfect waffle made of buckwheat and wild rice platted at the peak of crispy deliciousness and topped with an over easy fried quail egg still steaming, yolk ready to ooze its magic at the slightest touch. It is scenarios such as these that allow me the opportunity to work in a way that most chefs will never experience, the lone artist focusing on one masterpiece as opposed to the culinary general in charge of a brigade of cooks. As much as I love being part of a team it is here that I get to enjoy my solo. The following are menus from moments such as these in the last few months of Spring 2007.

Here is a dinner that was served in honor of Laurence Sterling’s Birthday. Each course was served with a different chardonnay from the estate and the meal ended with a special type of cheese course.

First course-

Quenelle of Patrale Sole with Watercress, Brandy-prawn Cream and Osetra Caviar

Second course-

Pan Roasted Boudin Blanc with Whole Grain Mustard and Rosemary Barley Risotto

Third course-

Mesquite Grilled Western Range Veal Chop with Buttered Spring Onions and Peas

Fourth course-

Mini Gratin of redwood Hill Chevre with Toast and Argentinean Abate Pears

 Here is perfect example of a lunch for two on a warm afternoon in the first week of April. Notice the dessert captures some of the spirit of the season. This meal was served on the veranda with a chilled bottle of the new ’06 Iron Horse Rosato de Sangiovese.

First-

Braised Artichokes and Spring Onions

White Wine, Lemon and Butter

Second-

Roasted Turkey Meatballs with Moroccan Mint

Potato Ragu with Estate Tomatoes and Garlic

Dessert-

Dark Chocolate Matzo

Caramel and Almonds

This list of menus wouldn’t be complete without mention of Mothers day, one of the most beautiful family occasions in recent memory. The weather was warm, Audrey’s table was set perfectly and the menu was a reflection of the bounty of spring. Lunch Started with caprinias on the patio and then unoaked chardonnay with the first course and 2005 pinot noir with the second and cheese. I used the entire crop of artichokes this year for the salad and the quail was brined overnight before grilling to ensure a moist and succulent bird.

First

Salad of Estate Artichokes and New Potatoes

Aioli, Olive Oil and Thyme

Second

Mesquite Grilled Quail with Morrel Cream

English Peas and Rosemary

Dessert

Laura Channel Taupiniere with Pistachio Nuts

April 16, 2007

This year's green valley symposium is much more personal to me than past years. As I write this I feel as though I have greater knowledge of all of the wines from this region, due in large part to a couple of key tasting experiments held the latter part of last year. These ‘think tank’ wine and food pairings were coined the ‘New Generation’ and included in the adventure some of the top chefs and sommeliers in the business today. Both of these pairings, one in Sebastopol, and the other in Chicago were based on the 4 T’s (taste, texture, time and temperature). These are simple guidelines to taste and evaluate wine and food without providing any right or wrong answers. A way to bust some of the myths about what food is correct for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. No boundaries and no preconceived notions.  As a result, it was general consensus that these wines from this AVA are extremely versatile with food especially when augmenting basic raw ingredients with such simple additions as different flavored sea salts and exchanging oil and butter. It is from this experience that I draw up two very differently themed menus for the occasion. With this in mind, I hope that over the weekend I can share more about this fun, informative and ongoing “think tank” focused on Green Valley Wine and Food.

With earth day thrown in as a central theme, we all have a chance to think global and eat/drink local. Eight food stations, each representing international ‘street cuisine” with its bright and bold flavors will give some new perspective to the versatility of cool climate chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The menu, representing a passion for indigenous cooking, will include grass fed beef kabobs with Chimichuri sauce, Vietnamese style submarine sandwiches showcasing local pork, a udon noodle soup with the bite of fresh chard and a broth made from local turkeys that have been smoked with apple wood. One of the most important aspects as always to me is that the menu be comprised using local Sonoma County and Northern California ingredients lovingly farmed and/or humanely raised. I know I can speak for my team when I say we are all very excited about this opportunity to bring a taste of the world to our own backyard and wash it down with wines made there as well.Monday, is a completely different story; a return to champion all things that are Sonoma but with a bit of Spanish flair. Being that the tasting is taking place at Marimar-Torres Estate, I thought it would super fun to start lunch with a table of tapas-like foodstuff. Tortilla Espanola, fresh prawns with olives and big bountiful salads with the best extra virgin olive oil and hints of citrus and house made vinegars. The second course will be a treat as well. This year I was fortunate to receive a call from Cindy Callahan at Bellwether Farms who offered her spring lamb, raised in nearby Valley Ford, just in time for the occasion. This wonderful and succulent meat will be grilled over a mix of mesquite charcoal and pinot noir vines from Iron Horse and served with a simple and quick ragu of spring vegetables to include asparagus, onions, and baby garlic. Although the local ingredients are again a high priority, the real focus of this meal is to pair the many wines represented form Green Valley as closely as possible with the courses of food. As this is a challenge do to the number of different wines that will be in glasses on the table, I hope that it will stimulate an overall conversation reminiscent of the ‘New Gen’ tasting held last year here and abroad.As I’m totally amped for these events, my soundtrack this week will definitely include, but not be limited to: Wolfmother, the new Wilco, Sky Blue Sky, LCD Sound System, early ZZ Top and, of course, lots and lots of Willie. 

My Culinary Moment:April 8, 2007

Easter Dinner with my family

 March 26, 2007

This may be the most verdant spring I can remember in Sonoma County. The last couple weeks of sun has everything from the grass to newly sprouting oak leaves to the amazing variety of flowering fruit trees (and vines) look as though they have been plugged into a giant electrical outlet. The shades of green are mind blowing; I didn’t know I could get it in so many! The warm weather has lent a hand in the pursuit of enjoying this particular season too, whether its cutting artichokes in the lake garden, weed whacking at home or laying on the wildflower strewn cliffs overlooking Chimney Rock, the sun has been cooperating nicely.

So with green on the brain, I wanted to share a simple if not quirky little recipe that pays tribute to the color and the season. This, like all great kitchen inventions came about from having the ingredients left over from something else and just putting them together in the right way.

Mince a spring onion and place in a medium mixing bowl, to that add a half of a jar of marinated artichoke hearts that have been drained and roughly chopped, a small clove of garlic that has been minced, a T. of extra virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon, and lastly a half of a firm avocado that has been diced. Mix gently and check for salt and pepper, adding as necessary. Grill a couple of pieces of bread and top with the artichoke and avocado salad; sprinkle with crumbled feta cheese. It’s that easy.

This is an easy match for the 2005 Iron Horse Unoaked Chardonnay with its lighter body and refreshing citrus notes. The pleasant acidity in the wine is a nice balance to the artichokes and the richness of the avocado. The dish and the wine could easily be packed into a small basket headed for a number of great picnic spot s around this green county. St. Patrick would be so impressed.

What I’m listening to in the kitchen:

Alif

Andrew Bird

Arcade Fire

Sean Hayes

Etienne De Roche

My culinary moment:

March 21, 2007   4pm

Drakes Bay Oyster Co.

Shucking and slurping smalls fresh out of the bay

2005 Iron Horse Unoaked Chardonnay

March 1, 2007

Well, no sooner do I mention the “dark” weather in West County, the sun comes out and everything is gorgeous for the first weekend of barrel tasting. This breaks a trend for the event as it is usually a very wet event catered to only the most hard core of wine tasting adventurers looking to get a sneak peak at some very beautiful up and coming wines. However, this last weekend we could have had it on the beach in Bodega (providing a bit of shade for the barrels, of course); that’s how nice it was on Saturday.  Up on the tasting patio Dawnelise and gang were generously turning the crowds on to tastes of both 2006 Corral Chardonnay and 2006 Thomas Road Pinot Noir.

I like to take the opportunity at this event to mingle with the guests and talk a bit about the dishes I am creating, what’s happening in the garden and orchard and of course up coming parties for our wine club. But, because this weekend marked a break in the wet weather for the first time in almost two weeks, I needed to take the time to actually take inventory of what and how everything was growing on the property. This is what I found: The asparagus is really starting to make a move upwards, the last few sunny days   are really going to guarantee a rush to the sky. The watercress is growing, but not quite at the speed Id like, because it’s wild though I just have to let nature take its course from year to year. A little more of the mild weather and a few light showers here and there and there will be plenty for the family to enjoy well into the early summer. Luckily for right now, Jose has planted plenty of beautiful salad greens in the frost houses. Baby Arugula, spinach, lots of Mache (lamb’s lettuce), Mizuna and a even a few crates of baby braising greens; all tender and delicious. The carrots are small but intensely flavored, as they have been growing in very cold soil. These are fantastic for flavorful soups, sauces and a nice way to add a sweet accent and bright color to a simple sauté of spring vegetables. I notice that the green garlic is perfect right now, small, trim and sporting a very mellow flavor using with sweet spring juices, same with the onions, both of these ingredients have been appearing daily on menus for the big house. A little bit if butter is all that is needed for intense carmelization as they carry so much natural sugar in their cells. Too much heat and they’re easy to burn. Shallots still have a ways to go but look incredibly healthy. As for the fruit blossoms, the plums are in full bloom and look like someone has plugged the entire tree into an electrical outlet. As long as the rain can just stay away long enough for the bees to do their job it should be a summer of tasty treats. Sterlini anyone?  

Of course I am very excited about the 2005 Unoaked Chardonnay and have starting quite a few menus with it since its release. With one warm weekend, a chance to get outside and the above-mentioned produce, I am beginning to think al fresco dining and the romance of Sonoma county picnics. With this particular wine in mind I am offering this recipe for the perfect spring sandwich. Make a simple salad of grilled asparagus drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and bring a small tin of picholine olives and you have everything need for a perfect lunch; indoors or out. 

Crispy Fried Pork and Avocado Sandwich on Toasted Pullman

With Fresh Chevre and Spicy Harrisa

8 – 2oz pieces Pork shoulder (sliced thinly across the grain)

3 T. flour

1 egg (whisked w/ 1 t. water)

1-cup cornflakes (crushed)

4 T. canola oil

1 T. extra virgin olive oil

½ lemon

Avocado (ripe but firm)

4 oz. fresh chevre (Redwood Hill)

1 bunch of watercress (cleaned and trimmed)

4 t. harrisa

8 slices of Pullman bread (toasted)

Black pepper (freshly and coarsely ground)

Salt

Begin by pounding pieces of pork with tenderizing side of mallet on one side only. Lightly salt, dredge through flour, then egg and then crushed corn flakes. Heat oil in 12-inch sauté pan over high flame until shimmering. Add meat and cook until golden and crisp about 1½-2 minutes per side, drain on paper towels, salt again while warm, then drizzle with olive oil and squeeze of lemon. Meanwhile, toast bread to a medium toast, Peel avocado and slice thinly. When bread is done, cover four with sliced avocado and four with 1oz. each of cheese. Top chevre with a small bunch of watercress and top avocado with 1 teaspoon of harrisa. Lightly salt and pepper lettuce, place crispy pork on top and close sandwiches.

Makes 4

February 2007

As those of you who pay attention to wine country weather know, its been raining steadily for quite sometime now. Although this wetness day in and day out can eventually become a drag, I tend to look positively on this annual event. I like to celebrate what it does for the hillsides that are so remarkably green this time of year and what takes place just outside the kitchen door. When it rains easy and evenly it gives the watercress that grows on the banks of the swollen streams a chance to come back from the cold winter days. The steady cloud cover keeps the frost away which is good for the baby shoots of asparagus that are just starting to push their way up through the soil in the raised beds along the sides of the orchard. Plenty of water also keeps the baby onions and garlic mild and tender and the carrots growing bigger by the day.

               “Dark” weather also gives me a chance to compose dishes that are still hearty and comforting enough to be categorized as winter, while beginning to use ingredients that hint at spring. Braises are still firmly in my repertoire right now, like tagine of lamb with spring onions and baby garlic served with saffron cous cous and vegetables. I am also roasting meats, like country style spare ribs, and pairing them with estate grown baby carrots and hearty side dishes like organic green lentils or shell beans that have dried from last years harvest. These dishes are best paired with big and delicious reds and this is the time of year to bust out the older vintage pinots and cabs (if you have any left).

              I also want to thank you all again for the great feedback at the Chinese New Year celebration at the winery. The recipes are on the website and if there are any questions, you may now direct them to chef@ironhorsevineyards.com.

My culinary moment:

February 11, 2007

Range Restaurant in San Francisco

2004 Iron Horse Pinot Noir

Roasted Chicken with Bacon, Onion and Pecan Winter Bread Salad

Sherry Reduction

June, 2006

The Iron Horse kitchen gets busier as the year becomes warmer. Coming in from the garden now are baskets of fava beans, sweet snap peas and gorgeous baby lettuces that are no longer grown in flats in the hot house, but in the garden adjacent to the vineyard. The asparagus has all bolted and the wild watercress has flowered and died back. Chief gardener Jose Puga and his crew are busy tilling and planting the lower garden with starts that can’t wait to be in the ground, now that the “lake” from the winter rains has finally dried and left in its place a fertile bed.

Summer is coming on fast and it is starting to become a factor in the way I look at food and wine pairing. As the sun becomes more of a major player this time of year, I am matching our wines not only with the flavors and textures of the food, but with the time and temperature of the day. As I’ve often stated, there are no real steadfast rules in wine and food pairing but one: “Drink what you like.” But this time of year, my palate tends towards a cool crisp white like Iron Horse Estate Chardonnay or the Cuvee R much as it does a refreshing noontime salad of baby romaine shoots with cold poached spot prawns and extra virgin olive oil or a chilled pea soup with fresh goats milk yogurt. I tend toward anything that lowers the temperature of the glass I’m holding. I’m looking for refreshment in both my food and my beverage choices. This is not to say that I am neglecting red wine. I’m just saving that perfect glass of Pinot Noir for the afternoon, sundown and beyond when the oceans “air-conditioning” kicks in. This is a natural way to cool down the bottle, so it is served and consumed at the proper temperature. It could just as easily be placed in an ice bucket on evenings with off shore winds.

Temperature is an important aspect to food and wine pairing. The whole idea of elevating the art of living beyond just eating and drinking for sustenance is to attain the maximum amount of pleasure possible. In order for this to be achieved, both the food and the wine need to be at their best. Just as the ingredients I use in the kitchen need to be held at the proper temperature to maintain their maximum potential (i.e. produce picked in the cool of the morning and stored, fish on ice, potatoes in darkness, etc.) so does the wine. This also applies to the types of cuisine I’m serving now, again tied to seasonality. Sugar snap peas are refreshing to the palate right off the shoot in the garden as is a properly chilled glass of Green Valley Chardonnay at the lunchtime table (or in the garden with the peas). This is a great pairing because both components work together at the same time and at the right time. As beautiful as a warm Beef Burgundy can be, it is going to fail miserably on an 87degree afternoon. Worse yet wine such as Chardonnay or Pinot Noir with its delicate volatility served too warm can be terribly disappointing. A perfect summer match is a grapevine grilled steak, medium rare, with just its natural, smokey jus served with a slightly chilled bottle of Iron Horse Pinot Noir. This is a great example of understanding the seasons and pairing wine to the temp.

My culinary moment:

May 9, 2006

Usal Beach, Calif.

Sunset

2003 Iron Horse Pinot Noir

The perfect campfire scramble of wild nettles, smokey bacon and ranch eggs

Yonder Mountain String Band in the player

Chef's Blog--May, 2006

Iron Horse wines are a dream for a chef because of their ability to go so well with so many types of food in so many ways. The bright rich fruit balanced by fantastic acidity and complimented by hints of green vegetable and 'minerality' lets me match this and that in endless combinations. But my focus is always on the brightness we get in our wines thanks our location in Green Valley. You can taste this special brightness in our Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and also see and feel it in the appellation itself. After all, it's hard to write about the wine without writing about the place. Western Sonoma epitomizes 'bright' to me. Its the way the sun hits the hillsides and waterways with shafts of light that look like laser beams as they train down from between the brilliantly cotton white clouds or the fact that even on a dark and rainy day the local flora offers a 1,000 shades of green at any given moment. This is Green Valley and this is spring.

Spring is finally here (everyone knows how long we've waited for it) and with spring comes bright flavors. All the vegetables that have been laying in wait all winter long now jump forth from the ground with a brightness and intensity to match the energy of the anticipation of all good things to come in the new year. This brightness in feeling and form is what I am pairing the Iron Horse Pinot Noir and Chardonnays with right now. Baby shoots of asparagus, little bundles of mache, tiny chives, bigger spring onions, baby carrots, beets, watercress, the list from the earth goes on and on. The bounty from the local dairies and ranches is equally bright and abundant. Spring lamb comes to mind immediately as does the mothers milk for making cheese and yogurt with veal, suckling pig, chickens and eggs not far behind. To me these young flavors all represent the brightness of new life. And so it is in the glass as well with new releases of wine that makes such a beautiful match.

On the subject of brightness, the hints of Gravenstein apple and citrus in our chardonnay are perfect with estate vegetables such as asparagus and snap peas as well as international flavors like curry and tamarind as I have recently demonstrated for our Corral club. Dungeness crab is arguably one of the brightest stars of the shellfish world and is a heavenly pair with the rich sleekness of our Blanc de Blanc (talk about bright). But sparkling wine is a subject for another time, right now it's about varietals, more importantly we move to pinot noir. On the estate right now I can't think about anything that pairs better with a glass of pinot than the perfect baby carrot glazed in sweet local butter or a woodland wild mushroom hot from a roasting oven. Oh, did I mention lamb? Put all four of these together and you have a holiday meal bright enough to match any sunny spring morning.

I was fortunate to recently be on the receiving end of a fabulous dinner prepared by Chef Charlie Palmer who folded some perfectly ripe banana into a soft polenta at the last minute to accompany Liberty duck and Sonoma foie gras. As surprisingly whimsical as it was it paired beautifully with a newly released bottle of Pinot Noir. One last example of local and exotic ingredients sharing something in common with Green Valley wine. Brightness.

Fresh produce from the estate I'm pairing with Chardonnay:

With Pinot Noir:

Chris Greenwald